Cue Care Information

For players who live  in desert areas such as Arizona,  NEVER leave your cue in the car, not even for 20 minutes. The  dry heat will ruin your cue.  It’s equivalent to putting your cue in the oven and setting it for 100 to 150 degrees and baking it. Any length of time would be bad for your cue. Leaving your cue in the car is the exact same thing. The dry heat removes moisture from the wood causing shrinkage and warpage ( The same affects can occur in colder climates). This results in the inlays and rings appearing swollen. If the inlays are wood, they can shrink. Heat can also cause swelling of metal rings and joints that push through the finish and the finish can shrink depending on the percentage of moisture used in the lacquer. It can also result in the shaft and/or butt of your cue warping. We cannot guarantee against these heat affects living in Arizona. We all know this is unavoidable and that is why it is important to do everything possible to protect your cue from the heat to reduce problems. The humidity here is 40% to 50% less than where most cues are manufactured.

  • If you do forget and leave your cue in the car, bring it indoors, LEAVE IT IN THE CASE, and allow it to cool down naturally over time. The reason cues warp is not only from the heat directly, but a rapid change in temperature as well. It is like placing a hot glass right from the dishwasher into the freezer. It will crack every time. The same principal applies to your cue. The same is also true with cold weather, but we don’t experience too much of that here in Arizona.

  • Remember that wood absorbs and releases moisture, is elastic and has memory. This is one reason you can swell dents out of your shaft. Depending on the elements your cue is exposed to, it can shift shape over time depending on moisture content in the air. Try to keep the environment as consistent as possible. This is the best advice I can give you for preserving the quality of your cue over time. Even if you do experience some swelling or shrinkage, it is very normal for cues in Arizona. This will not affect the performance of your cue. It is purely cosmetic. Even humidity changes here during the Monsoon season will cause movement of the cue wood but once it dries out again the wood can go back to its original position. We have seen this for years.

  • Store your cue is a cool place, away from windows or anywhere else it could get hot.

  • Never lean your cue against a wall or chair. Try to use a cue holder whenever possible to prevent accidental damage to your cue. If you play in billiard rooms or bars, cue holders are highly recommended to prevent players from grabbing your cue, thinking it is a house cue. This may sound ridiculous, but I have seen it happen countless times. A cue holder says…”this cue belongs to someone”.

  • There are a few things you must do to get proper performance out of your cue.

    1. The first is shape the tip properly. The two radius choices are nickel or dime. Most new as well as experienced players in the sport choose nickel. Dime radius is generally reserved for advanced players and those that prefer a smaller diameter shaft. It is, as with anything else a personal preference. Always do what works best for you. You may want to experiment to find out which one you prefer. There are many varieties of tip tools to choose from. We can explain them all so you can choose the right one for you. The style of tip you use will determine which type of shaper to purchase.

    2. Secondly, the tip needs to be roughed up so it holds chalk, bites the cue ball and reduces miscues. As you play the leather tip becomes compacted and smooth due to contact with the cue ball repeatedly. The smoother it gets, the more tip skid and deflection occurs because a hard glazed layer forms. The key to better performance is to keep the tip roughed to a specific feel you like, at all times, to prevent that glazed layer from forming. Check it once every couple of games, not every month or two. Consistency of the tip is critical to consistent shot making. Be careful to use the proper tool for roughing up the tip. I recommend tip pick tools or tacker style tools, not scuffers. Stop in and I will demonstrate the differences.

    3. The third thing is shaft maintenance. Every time you touch your cue, dirt from the table, balls, chalk and hand oils are deposited on the wood. This forms a buildup that creates resistance and drag as you slide the shaft through your fingers. You do not want ANY resistance or drag in your shot. A shot can be made or missed by millimeters. To keep the shaft clean and smooth as glass, I recommend Cue Papers, or Q-Wiz. These two products are the very best I have every seen and tested over the last 15 years. They are very reasonably priced at $8-$12. All are washable and reusable for countless cleanings. There are other products, but none work as well and have the same value. There are liquid products, but I am a purest and don’t believe you should put anything liquid on the wood. Liquids soak into the pours and leave a buildup over time. This will make dent removal more difficult so why would you do that. Liquids are also very temporary. Dirt and hand oils start building up on top of the liquids so it just doesn’t make sense to me when you can use the other products I mentioned and have a cleaner, smoother shaft without compromising the natural ability of the shaft wood.

  • Over time your wrap (if your cue has one) will get dirty. For leather wraps, simply wipe it off with a damp towel. You can also use leather conditioner/cleaner on it a few times a year to keep it clean and supple. Remember the Arizona heat. For linen wraps, use a damp towel but be careful. It needs to be SLIGHTLY damp. Too much water will cause the linen to fluff up like a cotton ball and that cannot be repaired. You would need to have the wrap replaced. To avoid this, wipe the linen down in a circular motion from the top of the wrap to the bottom, spinning the cue at all times. Do it quickly and don’t leave the damp towel too long in one place. Immediately do the same thing with a dry towel to absorb any moisture left behind. If you are uncomfortable trying this, bring your cue into the store and I will do it for you. No charge of course. Bring towels in just in case I don’t have a clean one available that day.

  • G Cue Billiard Store offers an extended warranty on every two piece cue we sell.

    1. If there is ever a warranty issue with your cue, the manufacturer will expect you to buy a shipping container, packing materials and pay for shipping costs to return the cue for evaluation. G Cue Billiard Store will take care of all this expense for FREE, providing the cue is covered under warranty. If it turns out it is not, these costs would be your responsibility. Some manufacturers charge for return shipping costs and some do not. If they do, this charge would also be your responsibility. We are happy to pay for the return to the manufacturer, but can’t absorb all the costs. It is a “manufacturer’s warranty”, but we feel the right thing to do is pay for most or all of it in some cases because you purchased the cue from us. G Cue proof of purchase receipt is required for this expense to be covered. Return cost is $20.00. You would pay this up front and we would refund it back if your cue met warranty parameters.

    2. Due to the Arizona heat, we cannot make this free shipping offer on warped shaft warranties for those companies that offer lifetime guarantees against warpage. We will provide the shipping container, packing materials and send it on your behalf, but shipping cost would be your responsibility. This also applies to cases.

    3. G Cue Billiard Store will change the weight in your cue FREE for life and supply any bolts needed at no cost to you. Over time some players like to experiment with different weights and as your game changes, you may require a lighter or heavier cue. Just bring your cue in and we will take care if it for you.

    4. Cue tips are NOT covered under warranty from the manufacturer or G Cue Billiard Store. Tips are like brake pads on a car. They wear out. Glue dries and they can come off, layers can separate, cues get knocked over and they pop off.


Thank you for trusting G Cue Billiards Store to help you purchase your new cue. If you have any questions about your cue, case, tools, supply items or the game of pool, I will be happy to share my knowledge with you so you can get the most out of your game.




G Cue Billiard Store Return Policy


  1. No refunds, exchanges or warranty issues without receipt.


  1. Refunds or exchanges for cues will be accepted for the purchase price of items returned within 30 days from the date of purchase with original receipt as long as the cue is in perfect condition as it was sold to the buyer.


  1. No cash refunds will be given for chalked cues.Once a cue is chalked, it is considered used and can no longer be sold as a new cue.


  1. For returned cues that have been chalked, there will be a 20% re-stocking fee plus the cost of returning the cue to brand new/resalable condition.Any damage detected on returned cues will result in a repair charge. Repairs may include new tip, ferrule, shaft cleaning or shaft replacement as well as refinishing any damaged to the butt of the cue.Determination of cue damages is at the sole discretion of G Cue Billiard Store.


  1. Tip Change, re-taper, or use of abrasive products that alter the shaft diameter will void this return policy.Custom cues, or special cue orders cannot be returned or exchanged for any reason other than manufacturer’s defect. Color variations in woods, fabrics, stains or inlay materials are not considered manufacturer defects.